Research Information System
Archaeological and Anthropological Sciences, vol.15, no.1, 2023 (SCI-Expanded)
© 2022, The Author(s), under exclusive licence to Springer-Verlag GmbH Germany, part of Springer Nature.In this study, a recently developed method to metal thread analyses by SEM–EDX (Oraltay and Karadag Stud Conserv 65(1): 59-64, Oraltay and Karadag, Stud Conserv 65:59–64, 2020) is combined with dye analyses by HPLC–DAD to investigate some sixteenth to nineteenth-century Ottoman brocade samples. The method consists of elucidating variable voltages of EDX data with the help of laboratory-prepared samples with known thicknesses. Thus, the differentiation between layered structures and alloys and compounds was managed. The new approach showed that all of the samples had sulfur layers with thicknesses comparable to the thicknesses of the underlying silver base. Furthermore, gold layers were too thin for the gilt samples and hidden under the corrosion layer. The original amount of silver and gold used in the production were obtained and compared to those provided by the archive data on the manufacturing methods dating back to the sixteenth century. HPLC–DAD was used for the identification of coloring compounds in the selected green, blue, orange, red, brown, and yellow color yarns. Spun of yarns was determined by optical microscopy. Information provided by optical microscopy and dye analysis by HPLC–DAD may help in the determination of the dating and source of the objects.